This site was last updated 01/02/07
Pet Care Sheet
1. Ask what foods the rabbit is currently being fed on and make sure you use this. If changing, do this gradually by mixing current feed and new feed together. Failure to do this could kill a young rabbit. Most breeders will give you some feed along with your rabbit so you may do this.
2. Never feed rabbit’s lettuce. This can cause diarrhoea and kill. It is advisable NOT to feed greens to any young rabbit less than 12 weeks unless the breeder tells you it has been raised on a diet including greens. If feeding young rabbits greens, avoid cabbage as it can cause bloat and make them very sick. An inch or two of carrot is adequate.
3. Take advice on which breed to buy. Some breeds are not appropriate for children due to size or temperament. This will also reflect on the size of hutch you will require for your rabbit.
4. If keeping outside, make sure you have it vaccinated for Myxomatosis. This is caught from wild rabbits, cats and dogs. Fleas carry it – and if ONE bites your rabbit and is carrying this – it will kill your rabbit inside a few days if not already vaccinated.
5. Don’t put a layer of newspaper on the floor of your hutch, as Newspaper print can be toxic. It also makes rabbits feet dirty – so cannot be used for show rabbits. Use wood shavings and hay instead.
6. If buying a pair of rabbits – make sure they are TWO does even they can get nippy when of breeding age and not bred. Bucks make far nicer pets than does in general. It is worth having your rabbit sterilised. This prevents the high risk of uterine cancer in older does and eliminates the pungent smell both bucks and does produce when wanting to breed. It also stops unfavourable behaviour brought on by some does during mating seasons.
7. If you’re new rabbit becomes dull or develops a swollen belly or diarrhoea – contact the breeder or vet immediately. These can be real rabbit emergencies that may be fatal if not treated.
8. A rabbits gut works by passing soft droppings, usually at night, which are then eaten before they touch the floor and this is how a rabbit can digest such a high fibre diet. The droppings that we normally see should be hard and dry and crumble when rubbed in your fingers. Very few rabbits can be sick so a high fibre diet is required to keep the gut moving. If there is a build up of gasses your rabbit IS in trouble and will have difficulty passing this. There are many suggestion to the best remedies to cure this, however very few are successful. Probably the best method is to remove feed and leave only hay straw and of course clean fresh water. If you have a large area for the rabbit to run about then this may help to get the gut moving again.
9. A rabbit’s front teeth work by grinding together and wearing each other down this is why they chew their hutch. Fruit branches are ideal for a rabbit to chew but make sure they haven’t been sprayed with pesticides. If the front teeth are misaligned then they will continue to grow and the rabbit will not be able to eat correctly, so check them out now and again. This problem can be genetic so it is not advisable to breed from such rabbits although your local vet should be able to trim bad teeth. Rabbits also have back teeth and problems with them often result in running eyes.
10. Probably the most common problem your pet rabbits have are mites. These are very difficult to see with the naked eye but will leave flaked dry skin usually on the shoulders by which time action is required. You can try using DYNA-MITE available from good stockists or a trip to the vet will easily cure it.
11. Young rabbits can suffer from stress especially at the time of weaning therefore youngsters will get a better start in life the longer they are with mum. However watch out for fighting or are any of them trying to mate including mother. If the adult is mounting the young and you intend breeding with her again they a visit to the bucks hutch will settle her down and should be happy back with youngsters for another two weeks. When the time comes to wean then remove the adult and leave the youngsters in their familiar surroundings, then perhaps a week later split the young into two groups and then to their individual hutches a bit later.
As a general guide aim to wean at twelve weeks old but as you are the person who is feeding and caring for these rabbit and see them every day then you are in the best position to judge when the time is correct for weaning. At this time it is especially important to maintain a high fibre diet thus keeping the gut moving, don’t forget fresh clean water. If you are using water bottles for drinking then a good tip is after the bottle is filled then try the ball-bearing on the top with the upside down bottle to check the water is getting through. If your rabbit stops’ eating the first thing to inspect is the water bottle, a thirsty rabbit won’t eat!
12. Rabbit runs. If you intend to use a rabbit run then be aware that the grass will quickly become contaminated and has to be moved on a regular basis. Also be aware that it is natural for a rabbit to dig so a weld mesh base may be required. However the biggest danger with using a run is that Mr Fox, Mrs Stoat, William Weasel and friends will all be very interested in what’s going on in the rabbit run. This is not just a country problem there are many town foxes etc very capable of breaking and entering.
13. Rabbit hutches. Your rabbit hutch should be strong, in case of predators, and also be water and wind tight. How would you like to live in a wet draughty house? However good ventilation is essential or there will be a build up of ammonia, which is not in the rabbit’s best interests. Let your own nose guide you if it takes your breath away then think of the poor rabbit which is stuck in there. Rabbits don’t seem to mind the cold as long as they are dry.
If planning to put the hutch in your garage then remember what blasts out the exhaust every morning, not very pleasant or suitable If hutch is going outside then get one that has a front and back overhang thus keeping bedding dry when rain is getting blown down, also a felt or similar material is required on a sloping roof. An outside hutch should be on legs at least three feet of the ground; it could be terrifying for your rabbit to have something unpleasant pushing against the mesh. Rabbit netting is not suitable for rabbit hutches as will be chewed through in no time. Weld mesh of at least 19g but better 16g is the best for hutch fronts available from fencing dealers, garden centre etc. When planning the position of your hutch remember your pet requires attention in all weathers and not just some feed thrown in now and again.
It might be worth considering buying a shed just for your rabbit hutch with scope to expand, a lot of breeders started with one pet rabbit a went on from there. Time spent planning at the beginning may stop heartache at a later date, also think of your neighbours, the first site of a mouse and your rabbit might get the blame, not the leftover takeaways lying about!
Rabbits can be very therapeutic after a bad day at the office, just ten minutes in the shed and problems are forgotten until tomorrow. This is why a shed might suit; many happy hours can be spent out in your shed. Rabbits like to see other rabbits but not in the same hutch, they like their own space.
If your rabbit is kept in the house be aware that they like to chew furniture cables etc. It may also be too warm in the house, remember they are wearing a fur coat all the time!
14. Rabbit waste. This can be a real problem to dispose of; if you only have one rabbit then it should be ok however it needs to be addressed before expanding. Your local council tip may take it as garden waste or general waste however some will refuse, best to check before planning to expand. A local farmer may take it, however rabbits can carry johnes disease, which can be fatal in cattle, and any leftover oats etc in the shavings, will also grow in the field.
15. Ringed rabbit. If you purchase your rabbit from an exhibition breeder then your rabbit may have a ring on its back leg; this shouldn’t cause a problem providing you don’t overfeed. Check ring weekly to see that it can freely turn and there is no hay tangled in it. The ring can be cut off if it is causing problems with special pliers; an experienced breeder or a vet can do this.
16. Breeds. There are many different breeds and colours of rabbits and it is down to personal preference which breed you chose depending on space available feed bills etc.
Rabbits in general don’t like being picked up but are quiet happy to be stroked, often the bigger the rabbit the more docile they are.
17. Scottish Rabbit Club. It may be worth joining this club and considering showing your rabbit, you will tap into a wide source of experienced breeders many of who will freely advise on any problems no matter how trivial they may seem.